So Thursday was a hoax and the charts were showing a brief pulse of SE swell on friday but , none of the charts really picked up on it and no one paid any attention to it. Was pretty bummed that there wasnt anything because the waves have been average for the last few days.
So friday morning i was down at the local early to get some shots of the sunrise and to my suprise at a 5:30am high tide (unless the local is big it doesnt really have a decent barrel at high tide) there were some really nice open pits coming through at around the 3-4foot size with a nice and light westerly wind grooming the main peak's. There was no one on it except for Butt's (local photographer) frolicking in the water with his rig taking some soul session shots.
Knowing i had another 2hours before the tide droped even futher and it would turn on, i stayed and took my shot's only to have my brand new memory card break on me after 1hour 30mins of shooting. This was quite anoying as i was not able to post any of the pic's i had taken, and there were some keepers on it aswell.
Went home and got my gear and returned to still find no one on it and the waves were still good, mayb even better than they were when i saw them. As i sutied up a local surfer came and had a chat to me and decided he'd come and get a few waves, always good to share the waves with someone early morning --> *insert jaws theme *.
My first wave was an absolute screamer, as the tide had droped faster than i had thought it would. I took off on the main peak behind the rock's to have the first section barrel really fast, i took the high line only to have the second section go dry causing a step, now while riding a barrel this isnt the best thing for you as you loose your rail and most of your speed usually. But i just flew right over the section and managed to make this really long second section barrel. There was some really good early morning light which made it even more sweet, the water was a light green colour, felt like i was riding through a bottle of mountain dew.
As the morning went on the word spread that there was actually decent waves and the crowd consistantly grew, but not to a point where it was frustrating , just a group of mate's going wave for wave.
There was only 1 other wave of the session that was really memorable and worth posting. Every wave has its own set of local chargers and one of them was out today. As i was sitting out there i hear someone whistle from the rock's (which means paddle because a set is coming) and i see this really wide set coming through (thanks the 15second period south swell) and i was the only one in position for it. It was already feathering on the outside, it was going to close. Not really wanting to pull into the closeout onto the dry section i decided to start to paddel over, only to have one of the local chargers shout "GO Booger". There is only 1 response when someone call's this, so i turned around and threw myself over the edge of this closeout to have the reef go dry while i was freefalling. I managed to land the drop, pull an extremly tight bottom turn and have this gapping wall of water engulf me. Luckly the foamy caught up with me and i managed not to hit the bottom to hard or it could of been a very different outcome.
At about 12:45 the wind swung NE which killed the swell at this particular spot and i decided i to call it a day.
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