Im always the one ranting and raving about why people text around when the surf is on, but for once i was happy that it was happening as i awoke to my phone vibrating off my bedside table.
The Message read : Point good 3-4foot . That was all that was needed to get me out of bed in a flash and get my wetty and board and head for a session with some friends.
I arrived to find the crowd's enormous, but to my relief they were mostly Mal riders and shoulder huggers which both don't go well with a reef/point break.
After spending a week with good waves and no crowds and going back to Sydney to get average waves and big crowds it was overly frustrating. I managed to get a few waves before the tide was to low and caused the reef to go bone dry. This was booger hour- "where the surfers cant really ride the waves because of the reef". I stayed around for another 30minutes getting some really dry slabs before i came off on a bigger one to have my knee's cheese grated by the reef, i wasnt to phased as its happened numerous times , and besides the crowd was getting even bigger.
"Chick's Dig Scar's"
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