Today there was some fun waves around 3-4foot, nice offshore winds, but a crowd the size of china's population, yes that's right billions of people.
I blame this on a few reason's:
- All the ASP Womens Pro's were out practicing for the Layne Beachly Classic that will be held at dee why tommorow. So this includes the likes of Steph Gilmore etc...
- Everyone has been wave starved lately for various reasons.
- Yesterday was a hoax so everyone thought today was the day.
Besides all these reasons i still managed to get a few fun waves, in between all the "surfer crew" being out, the snaking s and dropping in's occurring.
One memorable wave from today was when one of the more capable surfers, to my utter amazement slipped on a sneaky inside grinder leaving the barrel to bowl section to me. Like i had a demon inside me i swung around and launched myself into the wave only to have the inside section go bone dry on me. Deciding it was to late to bail , i took the high line of the wave only to loose all my speed and get destroyed by the shocky. Just as i hit the surface of the water i tried to take a breath, which now as i think about it, was a big mistake as i managed to swallow about half the jelly fish population in one mouth full. As i surfaced i worriedly asked a few people if there was any long term implications to swallowing jelly fish, to which there response was, i dont know. They wernt the stinging type of jelly fish and im still alive now so there musnt be any harm from it.
Was quite an eventful and funny day even if the surf wasnt all time.
Picture From Today - Fun Little Backdoor barrel - Picture Thanks To
"don - realsurf.com"
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