The Early.

The Night Before

• 4foot s swell
  
• low tide at 5:30 making the tide window open till about 9:30
• light westerly winds.
• All seems to be in place for some really decent waves.

I Got My Board, Wetty And Towel and left it by the front door the before so i am able to make a quick escape early morning to get some waves.

The Day

I woke up at 5:15am and made my way down to the a reef that i like to surf. To my utter disappointment the swell obviously hasn't arrived yet as i can see people driving away from the car park and not to it. still i am up this early i might just try my luck, there is a local SUP rider out and i decided he isnt going to snag many waves at the tide so i suite up and rock off.

To my suprise as i rock off a decent 3footer come's through and the sup rider calls me into it. i managed to power paddel out and to turn around and launch myself into this super fun backdoor barrel, i didnt make it and got pinched on the end section of the barrel, but got a fun porthole view with green and tourqoise coloured wave all around me.
This seems to be the start of the pulse and there is no one out! Yippie Kai Kay Mother Fucker!!!!
i spend the next hour just getting pit after pit with no one out, until finaly another person comes out, it was a booger mate of mine. So then me and him spent another hour pulling into backdoor pit's and having some fun dry reverse bowl's thrown at us just to keep us on our toes.
One particular wave that's in my memory was a reverse bowl that was really wide and sucked dry, i managed to hit the section a pull a massive air foward only to have the next section barrel and engulf me. I surfaced to have a grin the size of the joker's on my face. Good Times.
Over the next 3 hours the tide and crowd gradualy rose until it was time to call it quit's. By then i had got some extremly fun waves that alot of people would kill for so my stoke level's were running high and i was confident that it would stay like that untill my next surf. And the surf didnt even get to 4foot imagine if it did! Mind you ill sacrifice a foot of swell any day for less crowds.


A Picture from today of me about to launch out of an enticing ramp.
Picture By "Don - Realsurf.com"